The Journey
Stuart and Kemal fly from London on August 16, arriving in Dushanbe via Istanbul at 01:00 on August 17. They check into the Aram Baland Hotel and spend August 17 recovering, with light exploration and trek preparation.
On August 18, you'll drive 3–4 hours north to the Fan Mountains and begin your 4-day trek, camping three nights (Aug 18–20). The route takes you to Kulikalon Lakes on day one, over Alauddin Pass (3,860m) to Alauddin Lakes on day two, with a third day in the higher valleys, before walking out on August 21.
On the last trek day the group comes off the hill, drives past Penjikent to the Jartepa border and crosses the same afternoon, reaching Samarkand for dinner. Tom, whose Tajik visa was refused twice, flies to Uzbekistan instead and is there two days ahead. Three nights in Samarkand cover the Registan, Shah-i-Zinda, Gur-e-Amir and Bibi-Khanym.
On August 24, you pick up a rental car and drive the scenic route to Bukhara, stopping at Gijduvan ceramics and historic caravanserais. Three nights in Bukhara provide time for the Ark Fortress, Poi-Kalyan complex, trading domes, plus countryside sites using the car.
On August 27, you catch an early morning train (05:42) from Bukhara to Khiva, arriving at 11:37. You'll need to drop the rental car at the Sixt Bukhara Downtown office the evening before and prepare for an early start. The afternoon of the 27th plus most of August 28 gives you time to explore the walled Ichan Kala, staying one night at the Madrasah Polvon-Qori.
On the evening of August 28, you board an overnight train from Urgench at 19:00, arriving Tashkent at 08:22 on August 29 with time to freshen up at the Mirzo Boutique Hotel (one triple room, booked for the night of the 28th so it's ready on arrival, checkout 12:00) before your afternoon flight home (15:15), arriving London at 22:25.